The Weary Traveler Returns
I’m BAAAACK. I know you were worried… Actually, after the tragic bus accident (a tourist bus heading to Assuan), I was a little worried. Then the bombing in Alexandria — though very far away and completely unconnected to me — made me uneasy.
Yet, here I am. Healthy, a little tanner, and totally sick of doling out baksheesh. As a few of you warned me, the people in Egypt hassle constantly for baksheesh. Like, they’ll randomly stop traffic for you to cross the street, and then they expect a tip. They’ll point you to the right line at the airport — give me euros, yes? Little boys were always offering to “help me walk” and got super mad when I refused.
Why, Even the guy whose JOB it was to load bags onto the belt at the airport check-in demanded 2 euro for each bag he lifted. My husband, the Frenchman, handed over the money with a friendly smile, but I fumed and refused to make eye contact.
Okay, I’m being overly harsh. As a rule, the Egyptians were SUPER friendly. Honestly, the people at our hotel were sooooo accommodating to us weird Westerners, and they were always willing to help without demanding baksheesh. It was only at the airport and in the big touristy places (like Ancient Egyptian temples) that the hassling was a problem.
Overall, the Frenchman and I had a thoroughly lovely trip, and I can’t wait to go back! Next time, I want to see less Red Sea and more Ancient Egypt. The coolest thing I saw was by far the Valley of the Kings (near Luxor). I only wish I knew what I’d been looking at… So next time I visit, I’ll really REALLY be going for research.
One fortuitous (though not necessarily GOOD) experiences was a flash flood. My WIP, Screechers, is set in the desert, and the heroine (Echo) is stuck in a flash flood. The way I wrote the scenes were was actually pretty accurate, but I totally underestimated the long-term effects.
We had about 30 minutes of rain, and it shut down everything. The roads were unusable for four days, and the water was still in big pools almost a whole week later! Because rain is SOOOOO uncommon in the desert and along the Red Sea (only once every few years), none of the hotels or buildings have any method to deal with it. It seemed like your basic Florida storm to me — in and out. But holy crow! The damage was like a tornado had ripped through, and I am now very grateful for drainage systems and soil accustomed to rainfall.
😉
You tell me: Have you experienced crazy weather while you were abroad? Have you ever traveled places where the locals hassled and harassed you for money? Or have you ever visited somewhere that just wasn’t what you expected at all?
*Note: I’m sorry for not responding to comments on the last two blog posts! I had no internet in Egypt, but I promise to respond to all comments berry berry soon.
January 5, 2011 @ 11:27 am
yay- so nice to hear you had a great (and safe) trip, and also very cool you acquired some knowledge really helpful to your WIP. After I went I read part of Twain’s The Innocent’s Abroad, and even he complains about the baksheesh. That made me feel slightly better: it’s been around a long time. welcome back!
January 5, 2011 @ 11:28 am
dur, The Innocents Abroad, no apostrophe. Literally just woke up.
January 5, 2011 @ 11:30 am
Oh my god, they offered to HELP you WALK!? Last I checked, you don’t look 90 years old. But then, a tan can do amazing things to skin…
Also, have I mentioned how insanely jealous I am of you and your adventures in Egypt? I went to Rome a few years ago, and all I remember – aside from crying in the street because my then-boyfriend refused to go on an Ancient Rome tour with me. I know. Douchebag. – is people in the street being like “Pretty girl, pretty girl, you want rose? Rose for pretty girl? Only 20 Euro!” etc etc. Mmm, perverted Italians.
ALSO, that photo of you and The Frenchmen (I can’t type that without doing an inward sleazy French laugh) is the cutest thing ever. Definitely one for the mantelpiece 😀
January 5, 2011 @ 12:03 pm
While having only been to Disneyland Paris (no, not even Paris itself!) after living 4 years now in the UK (I am ashamed of that, but to be fair, I’ve been at uni so I’ve not had time til now!), everyone I know who’s travelled abroad, mostly Europe, have experienced similar demands of money for simple tasks… and tasks that weren’t even required of the travellers! A friend and her partner went to a resort in Turkey and were hounded incessantly to pose for photos at the poolside, at the bar, etc. She said she’d never go back for that reason – I know *I* don’t want strangers taking photos of me in my swimming costume. But like you said, its the touristy bits… Maybe the trick is to visit the touristy bits right away while you’re still in “wow, I’m on holiday!” mode, and then the latter half of the trip do the more off-the-beaten-path type things. Who knows.
Glad to hear you had a worthwhile and safe trip! 🙂
January 5, 2011 @ 1:52 pm
Glad you had a safe and fun trip. The pictures are gorgeous!
January 5, 2011 @ 2:32 pm
Your pictures are gorgeous! Welcome back!
The constant hassling for money would have made me really, really annoyed too.
January 5, 2011 @ 2:37 pm
Oh, I’m so excited. I’m looking at going to Egypt at the end of this year or early next year. Love the pictures!!
January 5, 2011 @ 4:19 pm
@Katharine Owens – I read part of Innocents Abroad (sans apostrophe!) and thought it was a hilarious travel memoir. I’m going to rely on it for Spirit-Hunters Book 3 (which is set in Egypt). 😀
January 5, 2011 @ 4:23 pm
@Caitlin – I definitely don’t look 90 — if anything, I look like a teenager still!!
And yes, I got the same treatment in Rome, but I was still to naive to know the Avoid Eye Contact Rule, and Employ Full Glare Rule. I was full of Southern US smiles, and that resulted in a few too many date offers… OOPS!
And yes, Camel Photo will definitely be displayed somewhere or other…
January 5, 2011 @ 4:25 pm
@Evangeline – Disneyland, yay!!! Though you probably ought to visit Gay Paree once you’ve got time. 😉 I’ll be visiting sometime in the spring or summer since I have to research Spirit-Hunters Book 2 (and it’s set in, you guessed it, Paris).
And yes, no strangers taking my photo in a bathing suit. I won’t even let Hubby Frenchman take pictures like that!! 😉
January 5, 2011 @ 4:27 pm
@Holly – Thanks, Holly! I hope you had as much fun at HP WORLD — GAAAH, I’m so jealous.
January 5, 2011 @ 4:28 pm
@Meredith – Um, yeah…hassling was not pleasant. Though I did have fun bargaining at shops! Turns out I’m a wicked negotiator!
January 5, 2011 @ 4:29 pm
@Ciara Knight – I hope you get to go!!! You’ll love it!! 😀 😀
January 5, 2011 @ 4:50 pm
Hi! I traveled all over (and lived in) Europe and thought I was quite the savvy traveler, so I was really surprised when I went to India and Japan (business trip) and experienced a fair amount of culture shock. One thing I thought was funny–in India I could not get away from the friendly staring, and in Japan it was the exact opposite, I couldn’t get anyone to look at me. Going straight from one to the other, I felt like I’d walked through a time warp…
January 5, 2011 @ 4:55 pm
HAHAHA, that’s hilarious. I can imagine that going from Stare = Definite to Stare = Not Over My Dead Body would be tricky!!
Both Japan and India are on my Must Be Visited List, so I’ll keep all this in mind!! 😀
(CHECK IT, GUYS! I finally fixed the website code so I can do nested comments!! YAAAAAY!)
January 5, 2011 @ 6:58 pm
I went to visit my dad in Italy in October (Tuscany Region). Haggling is a way of life! They chase you down the street shouting prices lol very overwhelming. And when they found out I was an American – omg chaos! Italian is my favorite kind of cuisine so I ate way more than I should have. Also, they really love their sun there. Lots of old guys in speedos. I’m totally going back! For the food, not the speedos. Glad you enjoyed Egypt. I went once as a kid. The joys of being a military brat 🙂
January 5, 2011 @ 8:33 pm
Ooooh, Italian cuisine = BEST.
Um, and I think all Europeans like speedos. And nude sun-bathing. Hubby & I visited St. Martin (in the Caribbean) where a lot of French tourists go, and I have NEVER seen so many old lady tatas. I am scarred FOR LIFE.
January 5, 2011 @ 10:17 pm
Sounds like a great trip. I’ve never been anywhere. But I’m glad you got to go there for research. And having a flash flood was a “lucky”. It will add an important new depth to your MS.
January 6, 2011 @ 10:02 am
Yeah, it was “lucky” for me, though not for the rest of Egypt… :-/
January 6, 2011 @ 7:07 am
Isn’t it awesome when something that happens IRL serves as research? I was a bystander to a chase scene the other day, and apart from keepign out of the way, my main focus was on taking notes, because I can use that!
I’ve spent a lot of time in south east Asia, where the hassling can be a bit overwhelming. You certainly develop technique after a while!
So glad you had a good time, Egypt sounds like such an amazing destination!
January 6, 2011 @ 10:03 am
Southeast Asia — on my list of To Be Visited… Le Sigh. I need more $$ and time first! 😉
And woooo to chase scenes!! I bet that was super exciting/kinda scary/very educational!
January 6, 2011 @ 5:30 pm
Welcome back! Looking forward to your replies to our comments 🙂
I think the more tourtisty a place, the more the locals hassle for money. (It was sure that way with Rome.) But the scenery must’ve been so beautiful for sunrises and sunsets…
January 7, 2011 @ 8:47 am
Yes, sunrise & sunset were stunning! And you’re definitely right that touristy places attract hassling!